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| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Answer to: Program to toggle LED state with a single button? | 4 Relevance | 1 year ago | Admin | Programming | |
| ... tries to debounce but isn't ideal because it blocks the loop and prevents the Arduino from doing anything else during that time. Direct Button Read Without Edge Detection – Since you're checking digitalRead(buttonPin) == HIGH, if you hold the button down even slightly too long, it keeps toggling instead of switching just once per press. Try the program given below. Better program to toggle LED state with a single button: const int buttonPin = 2; const int ledPin = 13; bool ledState = false; bool lastButtonState = LOW; unsigned long lastDebounceTime = ... | |||||
| Answer to: Looking for Reliable Sites to Buy Display Modules | 4 Relevance | 7 months ago | Dinesh bhardwaj | Arduino | |
| For college projects, you can get reliable display modules from Adafruit, SparkFun, and Digi-Key. For Budget-friendly options, Amazon and AliExpress offer plenty, but always check seller ratings. These sites cover LCD, OLED, and LED displays commonly used in student-level projects. If you’re in India, Robu.in is also a solid local option with good availability. | |||||
| ESP32 Vs ESP8266 - Which one to choose? | 4 Relevance | 1 year ago | Nitin arora | ESP32 | |
| I am a college student working on a project that requires a Wi-Fi-enabled microcontroller, but I am unsure whether to choose the ESP8266 or ESP32. I WAnt to understand how they compare in terms of processing power, memory, and additional functionalities. Also, since the Budget is a factor, would the ESP8266 still be a good option, or is it worth spending more on the ESP32? Which one would be more suitable for a college project? | |||||
| Answer to: Good circuit simulation softwares- Any suggestions? | 4 Relevance | 1 year ago | nathan | Softwares | |
| If you're looking for free simulation software, I’d recommend LTspice; however, it lacks built-in Arduino support. For a professional option, OrCAD and Proteus are great choices. There are also many other options available at a moderate Budget that you could try. | |||||
| What is the difference between low-pass and high-pass filters? | 3 Relevance | 12 months ago | CircuitFlow | Theoretical questions | |
| I’m trying to understand the fundamental differences between low-pass and high-pass electronic filters. I gather that a low-pass filter allows low frequencies to pass while attenuating high frequencies, whereas a high-pass filter does the opposite. I’m particularly interested in how their circuit designs differ, their common applications, and how factors like cutoff frequency and filter Order affect their performance. Any insights or explanations would be greatly appreciated! | |||||
| Program to toggle LED state with a single button? | 4 Relevance | 1 year ago | tricky_logic | Programming | |
| ... tried using digitalRead() in a simple if condition, but I suspect I need to debounce the button properly. Should I use delay(), or is there a better approach using millis()? Here’s my basic code: const int buttonPin = 2; const int ledPin = 13; bool ledState = false; void setup() { pinMode(buttonPin, INPUT); pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT); } void loop() { if (digitalRead(buttonPin) == HIGH) { ledState = !ledState; digitalWrite(ledPin, ledState); delay(200); // Debounce delay? } } Is there a more reliable ... | |||||
| Answer to: What is the maximum operating frequency? | 4 Relevance | 1 year ago | Admin | Theoretical questions | |
| Hi, You can check its datasheet for this. The maximum operating frequency depends on its internal components and architecture: M9K Embedded Memory Blocks:Maximum operating frequency: 315 MHz for Cyclone III devices. Global Clock Networks:Maximum frequency: 315 MHz. Internal Logic:Achievable frequencies depend on the design, but a typical maximum is 200 MHz, influenced by factors like logic depth and routing. | |||||
| Suggestions for a Handheld or Compact Oscilloscope? | 4 Relevance | 8 months ago | PCBChronicles | Equipments | |
| I’ve mostly used benchtop oscilloscopes available in my college lab, but now I’m looking to buy a portable oscilloscope that I can easily carry around for on-site testing and general electronics work. Portability is important to me, but I don’t WAnt to compromise too much on performance or usability. Can anyone recommend a good portable oscilloscope—either handheld or tablet-style—that offers a decent balance of features, screen quality, and reliability? I’d prefer something with at least 2 channels, good battery life, and support for basic measurements lik ... | |||||
| Answer to: Best Cheap as Possible ESP32 Boards? | 4 Relevance | 9 months ago | Harper | ESP32 | |
| I've tested several ESP32 boards, both branded and ultra-cheap clones, for basic IoT projects like Wi-Fi control, sensor data logging, and general experimentation. In terms of price-to-performance, the ESP32 DevKit V1 (based on the ESP32-WROOM-32 module) remains one of the most reliable and affordable options. You can usually find it for around $4–5 on AliExpress or Amazon. It offers stable Wi-Fi, full GPIO access, and solid support in both the Arduino and ESP-IDF environments. However, some clones use low-quality voltage regulators (like the AMS1117), which can heat up or cause brownouts during Wi-Fi transmission. Another good option is the ESP32-C3 dev board, which usually costs around $3–4. It uses a RISC-V core and supports native USB, which eliminates the need for a separate USB-to-Serial chip. It's also more power-efficient, making it a great choice for battery-powered applications. The only downside is that it has fewer GPIO pins and lacks dual-core performance. If you're willing to spend a little more, the ESP32-S3 boards (typically priced at $5–7) are also worth considering. They offer advanced features like USB-OTG and AI acceleration but may be overkill for basic use cases. As for ultra-cheap boards from platforms like AliExpress or Amazon, they do work—but with some caveats. While they’re perfectly usable for most beginner and intermediate projects, you may encounter issues such as weak voltage regulators, noisy ADC readings due to poor PCB layout, and lack of auto-reset for uploading code. Some of these boards also come with obscure USB-to-Serial chips, so it's better to stick with ones using CH340 or CP2102. When buying ultra-budget boards, look for those that use genuine Espressif modules (usually marked “ESP32-WROOM” on the metal shield), and always check seller ratings or community feedback. I hope this information will help you choose the right one! | |||||
| Answer to: Can anyone suggest a new ESP32 board? | 4 Relevance | 9 months ago | Rashid | ESP32 | |
| ... also the P4-Function-EV-Board if you WAnt to experiment with multimedia interfaces or build smart displays (it supports a 7-inch touchscreen). For IoT stuff, ESP32-C6 is really Catching on. It supports Wi-Fi 6, BLE 5.3, Thread, and is Matter-ready. Boards like the XIAO ESP32C6 (from Seeed) or the ESP32-C6 DevKitC-1 from Espressif are solid picks if you're working on low-power or Matter-based devices. Also worth mentioning: 1.Arduino Nano ESP32: Compact, beginner-friendly, and based on the ESP32-S3. 2.ESP32-S3-BOX-3: Powerful AIoT dev kit in a ni ... | |||||
| Answer to: What is the difference between Arduino Nano Every and Nano RP2040? | 4 Relevance | 1 year ago | Admin | Arduino | |
| Well, these two are very different boards if you look at the specs. I do not understand why you are confused between these two boards. Arduino Nano Every: This board does not include built-in Wi-Fi or Bluetooth capabilities. It's suitable for projects that don't require wireless communication or where such features can be added externally if needed. Priced at approximately €15.30 (around ₹1,350), it's a cost-effective choice for basic projects. Arduino R02040 Connect: Equipped with the u-blox NINA-W102 module, it offers both Wi-Fi and Bluetooth connectivity. This makes it ideal for Internet of Things (IoT) projects or applications requiring wireless communication. Available for about €30.70 (around ₹2,700), reflecting its enhanced features and connectivity options. Which One Should You Choose? Nano Every: If you’re on a Budget, don’t need wireless connectivity, or are working on simple projects, this is an excellent choice. Nano RP2040 Connect: If your project needs built-in Wi-Fi or Bluetooth, or if you’re exploring more advanced or resource-intensive applications, this is the better option. | |||||
| Answer to: Can IR Sensors Replace Ultrasonic Sensors in Most Applications? | 4 Relevance | 2 years ago | Tech Geek | Hardware/Schematic | |
| ... sensor: Ultrasonic sensors emit sound WAves at a frequency above the human hearing range and measure the time it takes for the echo to return after bouncing off an object. So, IR sensors can be used in some applications where ultrasonic sensors are typically used, but they are not ideal for precise distance measurements. The main drawbacks of IR sensors are their limited range, sensitivity to light and surface types, and temperature sensitivity. In contrast, ultrasonic sensors are better for precise distance measurements, are unaffected by light condition ... | |||||
| Bluetooth Speaker won't turn on | 3 Relevance | 2 months ago | servitec | Theoretical questions | |
| I know is not probably the best place for a newbie, the AI somehow helps but I definitely prefer go with the experts. I am fascinated with the laws of electronic, but more than ever I know it demands a serious compromise to enter this amazing world. Board Description: HXYT-A0-665-REV1.1 (A bluetooth speaker)The speaker wont turn on, is doing nothing.SIDE ACompt.1= 56HS5, B310B (5 pins)Compt.2= J6 (3 pins) ?Compt.3 4004A, 33580KMSide BCompt.1= 4R7 (inductor)Compt.2= SS54 (SCHOTTKY BARRIER RECTIFIER)Compt.3= M8889, Y4D371 (8 Pins) ?Compt.4 PNSA15E7E, X0B253, 2359 --When connected the battery in the terminals, it shows normal (aprox 5V)--I tested the negative and positive spots in reverse of battery connector and off course no shorted--When first tested pin C of power button, it shows 0.840V, after some tests is showing 2.4V when first push the power button it drops to 0V but now no more drops and it gets 2.4 V no matter if push the power button--Tested all capacitors of Side A and all of them are ok, also the capacitor X which is connected to the Compt.3, the component 3 seems to be a DC-DC converter, the capacitor X is in parallel of pins 4 and 6. When checking the VIN in Compt.3 (pin5) is ok, but when I push the power button there is no VOUT (pin1)--When connected to the charger, the device’s charging led turns on and the board battery terminals shows the charging voltage. In Side B We can see the battery port, the left pin is the + one, that pin goes to the compt.1 through pad named in the image as “pad positive pin”, then the compt.1 is connected to the compt.2 (I tested both and they seem to be ok). I tested all capacitors in Side B, all of them are ok except capacitor X. The capacitor X is connected to the pin that is marked with a yellow face sticker in compt.4, and I'd like to have the PCB's information or at least the compt.4's (or the M8889) in Order to know that capacitor values.What more testing do you recommend me to apply, what is component 2 in side A, what is component 4 in side B, is it a multiplexer? What is component 3 in side B, is it a switch IC? What recommendations can you give me when is hard to find a component by its code? Attachment : Side-A.jpg | |||||
| Answer to: STM32 vs Arduino: Which One is Better? | 4 Relevance | 1 year ago | Amelia | Hardware/Schematic | |
| ... MHz). STM32 microcontrollers use 32-bit ARM Cortex processors with much higher clock speeds (ranging from 48 MHz to 216 MHz or more), giving them significantly better performance for complex calculations and multitasking. When to choose STM32: If you need higher processing power for tasks like advanced signal processing, real-time data handling, or running complex algorithms. When to choose Arduino: If your project is simple and doesn’t require high performance, sticking with an Arduino board might be easier and more straightforward. 2. Ease of Use and ... | |||||
| Answer to: How can I safely power a BLDC motor from a hard disk drive? | 3 Relevance | 5 months ago | Divyam | Theoretical questions | |
| ... but may be difficult; a microcontroller + driver is great for learning but not the easiest. To find the pinout, measure resistance with a multimeter: with 3 wires, all pairwise readings should match (the three phases); with 4 wires, the pin that reads the same to all others is the neutral; phase Order only affects direction, so swap any two leads to reverse. To avoid damage, never apply DC across two leads, don’t stall the rotor, keep leads short (with a decoupling capacitor near the driver), and WAtch temperature. | |||||
