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| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Answer to: DMM in mA mode causes ~0.6 V drop — normal burden voltage? How can I minimize it? | 12 Relevance | 5 months ago | nathan | Theoretical questions | |
| Yes, the 0.6 V drop you’re seeing is the Meter’s burden voltage, which is the voltage lost across the DMM when it measures current. In mA mode, the Meter places a small internal shunt resistor (and often a fuse or protection components) in series with your circuit to sense current, and this resistance causes a voltage drop equal to V=I×Rmeter. For example, a 0.6 V drop at 60 mA means the Meter adds about 10 Ω in series, which can significantly affect low-voltage circuits by reducing the actual voltage reaching your load. To minimize this, you can use an external low-value shunt resistor and measure the voltage across it with the DMM in voltage mode, then calculate current using I=V/RI = V/RI=V/R. Alternatively, use a dedicated low-burden current sense amplifier or sensor such as the INA219, a DC clamp probe that measures current without inserting resistance, or the Meter’s 10 A input (which usually has much lower internal resistance) if the current is within safe limits. These methods help keep the measurement accurate without disturbing the circuit’s operating voltage. | |||||
| Answer to: Is it safe to use the multimeter’s amp setting on live circuits? | 12 Relevance | 5 months ago | Neeraj Dev | Equipments | |
| Definetly not, Dont switch to amps or move the red lead to the A/10A jack while your probes are on a live circuit. In A mode the Meter is basically a short; flipping to it or probing voltage with the lead in A can blow the fuse, make an arc, or worse. Set the Meter and leads with power off, break the circuit, insert the Meter in series, then power up. For mains, use a clamp Meter; for 12 V high-current systems be extra cautious or use a clamp/shunt. And always move the red lead back to V when you’re done to avoid the classic “next-time short.” | |||||
| Answer to: Is it safe to use the multimeter’s amp setting on live circuits? | 12 Relevance | 8 months ago | cooper | Equipments | |
| ... of wire—it has very low resistance. If you try to connect it across a live circuit (like you would for voltage), you're basically shorting the power source, and that can result in Blown fuse in the Meter (if you're lucky), Arcs or sparks. So, If you dont WAnt that Always power off the circuit before measuring current. Break the circuit and insert the Meter in series, making sure the probes are in the correct ports—especially the high current port if you're measuring above ~200mA. Once everything's connected, power on the circuit, take your reading, and t ... | |||||
| RE: what is "Display count" in a multimeter? | 9 Relevance | 12 months ago | Admin | Equipments | |
| Not quite—a 6000-count Meter doesn’t extend the 2V range to 5.999V. The range is fixed by the multimeter, not the count. In the 2V range, both 2000- and 6000-count Meters typically max out at 1.999V. A 6000-count Meter would show up to 5.999V only if it's on a 6V range, not 2V. So, a higher count means better resolution, but the voltage range itself stays the same unless the Meter has a higher range setting. | |||||
| Answer to: Multimeter continuity beeps with no contact — false positives? | 6 Relevance | 8 months ago | Harper | Equipments | |
| This usually happens due to the high sensitivity of the multimeter’s continuity mode. Some Meters are designed to beep even with very low resistance, which means slight contact, moisture, or even nearby conductive surfaces can trigger a false beep. However, that's not the only cause. Sometimes, while testing components like Semiconductors or capacitors, residual charge or leakage paths within the component can also cause the Meter to falsely detect continuity. In such cases, the beep doesn't necessarily indicate a true short—it could just be the Meter reacting to a small voltage or current still present in the circuit. | |||||
| Multimeter continuity beeps with no contact — false positives? | 3 Relevance | 8 months ago | CircuitFlow | Equipments | |
| Hi everyone, While checking continuity with my multimeter, I sometimes get beeping sounds even when the probes aren’t actually touching the wires.It seems like a false reading.Could this be due to stray capacitance, interference, or a faulty Meter? | |||||
| Is it safe to use the multimeter’s amp setting on live circuits? | 3 Relevance | 8 months ago | techy ishan | Equipments | |
| I’ve seen WArnings about using the current (amp) setting on a multimeter, and I WAnt to be cautious. I understand that to measure current, the Meter has to be placed in series with the load. But I’m unsure about the risks involved when doing this on a live circuit, especially with higher voltages like AC mains or even 12V DC systems with decent current. Is it safe to switch to the amp mode while the circuit is powered? | |||||
| Answer to: Can measuring current the wrong way damage my multimeter? | 3 Relevance | 9 months ago | TechTalks | Equipments | |
| Yes, if you measure current like voltage (in parallel), you can short the circuit and blow the multimeter fuse, or worse, damage it. Also, if the probe is left in the current port and you try to measure voltage, it creates a short path and can seriously damage the Meter or the circuit. Always switch the probe back to the voltage port and check your dial setting before measuring. | |||||
| Answer to: Difference between EEPROM and Flash? | 3 Relevance | 5 months ago | Paul | Hardware/Schematic | |
| EEPROM and Flash are both non-volatile memories built from floating‑gate transistors, but they differ mainly in write/erase granularity. EEPROM lets you update individual bytes (it internally erases just that byte), giving higher endurance and making it ideal for small, frequently changed settings. Flash must erase larger blocks/sectors and program in pages (you typically erase a whole sector before changing any byte), which makes it cheaper Per bit and faster for bulk storage like firmware and large data. | |||||
| Answer to: How to Measure Capacitance with a Multimeter? | 6 Relevance | 9 months ago | Paul | Equipments | |
| ... gives inaccurate results. 2. Discharge the capacitor safely: 3. Use a resistor (e.g., 1kΩ, 1W) across the leads. 4. Avoid shorting large electrolytics directly — they can spark or get damaged. 5. Set your multimeter to capacitance mode (⏀). 6. Connect the probes to the capacitor leads. Polarity doesn't matter for film or ceramic caps; for electrolytics, follow Meter instructions. 7. WAit a few seconds for the reading to stabilize — especially for high-value caps. Hope this helps! | |||||
| Answer to: How to Measure Capacitance with a Multimeter? | 6 Relevance | 9 months ago | Amelia | Equipments | |
| Yes, definitely discharge the capacitor first — especially if it's a high-voltage one. A charged cap can damage your multimeter or give you completely wrong readings. To discharge it, you can short the leads using a resistor (like 1kΩ or 10kΩ), or a screwdriver with an insulated handle if it's a small electrolytic (nothing high voltage though — not safe). Also, for accurate readings: Take the capacitor out of the circuit if you can. In-circuit measurements are often wrong because of parallel components. Let the multimeter settle for a few seconds, especially with large caps. Make sure your test leads are making good contact. If your Meter has a "zero" or "rel" mode, use that to cancel out stray capacitance from the probes. And keep in mind, these DMM readings are just a ballpark — they won’t tell you if the cap has high ESR or leakage. For that, you'd need an ESR Meter. | |||||
| RE: new to electronics and needing some guidance with a circuit . 555 LED lights | 6 Relevance | 8 months ago | Admin | Circuits and Projects | |
| Hi! I checked the circuit on TinkerCad. There were some mistakes, like wrong capacitor connection and value. Here's the edited one: A couple of points worth mentioning here: 1. On running the simulation, TinkerCad shows too much current drawn from the IC and may damage it. 2. This is true if you are running it continuously. In this case, all LEDs are ON at the same time for a very small duration, so it somehow works. 3. Still, not a good idea in the long run. I will suggest: 1. Use a 220-ohm resistor instead of 100. And connect two LEDs Per pin to only one resistor. Meaning a total of 8 resistors for an 8-pin. This will reduce the overall current draw from the IC and Per pin as well. 2. Better use 330 ohm..but not that it will reduce the brightness of the LEDs further. | |||||
| Answer to: What is the difference between L293D and L298N Motor Driver? | 6 Relevance | 1 year ago | Admin | Theoretical questions | |
| Attachment : L293D-Vs-L298N.jpeg The only important difference between the L293D and L298N motor driver module is the current rating: L293D: Can handle up to 600mA Per channel (with a peak of 1.2A for brief Periods). L298N: Can handle up to 2A Per channel (with a peak of 3A for short bursts). So if your motors require more than 600mA of current, the L298N would be a better choice due to its higher current capacity and attached heatsink. If you ignore the rating, there is an advantage to L293D: Since the L293D IC comes in a DIP package, you can use it as it is in your circuit such as on a breadboard or a PCB. L298N doesn't offer this feature since it comes in a Multiwatt-15 package. So you are forced to buy the complete L298N module. Also, the price of the L293D IC is very low compared to the L298N module. You can read the differences between these two in detail here: L298N VS L293D | |||||
| RE: Li-ion vs. Li-Po Batteries: Which One Should I Choose? | 3 Relevance | 1 year ago | Admin | Theoretical questions | |
| For a portable IoT device, Li-ion is generally the better choice because of its higher energy density and longer lifespan. It’ll give you more runtime Per charge and is easier to manage in terms of charging circuits and protection. That said, Li-Po can work for IoT devices, but it’s usually overkill unless you have specific design constraints—like needing a really thin form factor or a custom shape that standard Li-ion cells don’t fit. One area where Li-Po might make sense is if your device has occasional power spikes, since Li-Po batteries can handle higher discharge rates. | |||||
| Answer to: Maximum current limitation of a digital pin on UNO | 3 Relevance | 2 years ago | Admin | Hardware/Schematic | |
| Yes, the current limit Per pin is 40 mA(sink/source OR IN/OUT). However, this is the maximum absolute rating and you should not draw this much current continuously. The safe value is around 20-30 mA. It's better to use a DC motor driver like L293D or L298N for driving DC motors using Arduino. I hope this helps. | |||||
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