Notifications
Clear all
Search result for: WA 0852 2611 9277 [[GLORION]] Jasa Design Kitchen Set Full Atap Modern Grand Icon Caman Bekasi
Page 1 / 7
Next
... few key points below:
Signal Accuracy: If your oscilloscope's bandwidth is too low, it will attenuate (weaken) higher-frequency components, distorting the signal shape.
Capturing Fast Transients: Digital signals (like square WAves) contain high-frequency harmonics. Insufficient bandwidth causes edges to round off, making it hard to analyze fast transitions.
Noise and Spikes: A higher-bandwidth scope can reveal high-frequency noise, while a lower-bandwidth scope might filter it out.
A general rule is to select an oscilloscope with a bandwidth at least 5 ...
Yes, you can hook these pins to the PWM pin on Arduino. The Enable pin on the L298N acts as a gatekeeper for the power supplied to the motor. When the pin is Set HIGH, the motor is enabled and can run. When Set LOW, the motor is disabled and stops.
By connecting the Enable pin to a PWM-capable pin on the Arduino and sending a PWM signal, you can control the effective voltage supplied to the motor. This changes the speed of the motor: A higher duty cycle (e.g., 100%) means the Enable pin is HIGH most of the time, allowing Full power to the motor and thus Full speed.A lower duty cycle (e.g., 50%) means the Enable pin is HIGH only half the time, reducing the average power supplied to the motor and thus reducing the speed.
Here's an example that demonstrates how to Set up and control the motor speed connected to A channel:
// Define pins
const int ENA = 9; // PWM pin for Motor A
const int IN1 = 8; // Direction pin 1 for Motor A
const int IN2 = 7; // Direction pin 2 for Motor A
void Setup() {
// Set pin modes
pinMode(ENA, OUTPUT);
pinMode(IN1, OUTPUT);
pinMode(IN2, OUTPUT);
}
void loop() {
// Set motor direction
digitalWrite(IN1, HIGH);
digitalWrite(IN2, LOW);
// Set motor speed using PWM
analogWrite(ENA, 127); // 50% duty cycle, half speed
delay(2000); // Run for 2 seconds
// Change motor speed
analogWrite(ENA, 255); // 100% duty cycle, Full speed
delay(2000); // Run for 2 seconds
I'm troubleshooting a communication circuit and often hear people say to “set the trigger” on the oscilloscope. I’m confused—what’s the difference between just connecting the scope and actually Setting the trigger? What does the trigger do, and how does it help in viewing signals properly?
I’ve noticed that the LM317 linear voltage regulator is still widely used in various hobbyist and even some professional circuits, despite the availability of efficient and compact switching regulators. Considering that switching regulators offer better efficiency, less heat dissipation, and smaller footprints, what are the reasons engineers or Designers still opt for LM317 in certain Designs?
Is it due to simplicity, cost, noise sensitivity, or something else?
... for beginners who are new to RF like me, and even the cheapest RF power meters cost hundreds of RMB. For electronics enthusiasts who follow the principle of "spend when you should, save when you can", DIYing an RF power meter is a great alternative.
The first step WAs to define the functions and Design the hardware circuit. To test RF power, a chip called a detector is required. I had not found a suitable option for a long time as it WAs my first time working with an RF detector, until I saw the power detection module on the E25-C test baseboard, which use ...
... etc.
Tough housing, drop-tests, high-CAT safety ratings.
High accuracy, true-RMS, stable calibration.
Long lifespan, support and WArranty which reduce long-term cost.
If you’re replacing a hobby-meter and don’t work in heavy duty applications, yes you might be fine with a cheaper brand. But if you need one tool that you can trust under serious conditions, the extra cost makes sense.
Servo jitter in Arduino projects is usually caused by power instability, electrical noise, long signal wires, or software timing conflicts.
To reduce it, use a separate and stable power supply for the servo (not the Arduino 5V pin), and connect all grounds together. Add a 100 µF–470 µF electrolytic capacitor near the servo’s power pins and a small 0.1 µF ceramic capacitor for noise filtering.
A 220–470 Ω resistor in series with the signal line can also help. On the software side, avoid writing the same servo position repeatedly, filter noisy input signals, and use small delays or smoothing functions to prevent rapid position changes. These steps usually eliminate most servo jitter problems.
Yes, much of the heating behaviour is inherent to older bipolar-driver ICs like the L293D and L298N. Those chips use bipolar transistors (Darlington or bipolar output stages) with large voltage drops, so a significant fraction of motor power is dissipated in the chip as heat.
Wiring and supply issues (thin wires, poor decoupling, undervoltage, high stall currents) can worsen the problem, but replacing the driver with a Modern MOSFET-based H-bridge or dedicated MOSFET motor driver typically reduces losses by orders of magnitude and greatly lowers heat.
I’ve been using L293D and L298N motor drivers and noticed they heat up quickly, even under light loads.Is this inherent to these older ICs, or could it be a wiring/power supply issue on my side?
How much of a difference would Modern MOSFET-based drivers make in terms of efficiency and heat dissipation?
Definetly not, Dont switch to amps or move the red lead to the A/10A jack while your probes are on a live circuit. In A mode the meter is basically a short; flipping to it or probing voltage with the lead in A can blow the fuse, make an arc, or worse. Set the meter and leads with power off, break the circuit, insert the meter in series, then power up. For mains, use a clamp meter; for 12 V high-current systems be extra cautious or use a clamp/shunt. And always move the red lead back to V when you’re done to avoid the classic “next-time short.”
Page 1 / 7
Next