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| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Answer to: How can servo jitter be reduced in Arduino projects? | 2 Relevance | 4 months ago | Neeraj Dev | Arduino | |
| Servo jitter in Arduino projects is usually caused by power instability, electrical noise, long signal wires, or software timing conflicts. To reduce it, use a separate and stable power supply for the servo (not the Arduino 5V pin), and connect all grounds together. Add a 100 µF–470 µF electrolytic capacitor near the servo’s power pins and a small 0.1 µF ceramic capacitor for noise filtering. A 220–470 Ω resistor in series with the signal line can also help. On the software side, avoid writing the same servo position repeatedly, filter noisy input signals, and use small delays or smoothing functions to prevent rapid position changes. These steps usually eliminate most servo jitter problems. | |||||
| Answer to: How does capacitor ESR affect decoupling performance? | 2 Relevance | 5 months ago | Amelia | Theoretical questions | |
| ESR (Equivalent Series Resistance) plays a big role in how effective a decoupling capacitor is. Low ESR capacitors, like ceramics, are great at handling high-frequency noise and fast transients, which is why they’re used near IC power pins. However, ultra-low ESR isn’t always ideal—some regulators actually require a certain ESR range for stability, and higher ESR capacitors (like electrolytics) can help by damping resonances and providing bulk decoupling at lower frequencies. The best practice is to use a mix: low ESR ceramics for high-frequency suppression, and higher ESR electrolytics or tantalums for bulk energy storage and damping, while always checking the regulator’s ESR requirements in its datasheet. | |||||
| Why is this yellow multimeter so cheap? Is it any good? | 2 Relevance | 1 year ago | SparkLab | Equipments | |
| Hello everyone, I've come across a yellow multimeter that's priced significantly lower than others, and I'm curious why it’s so inexpensive. Is this Model reliable for basic measurements like voltage, resistance, and continuity? Has anyone used a similar low-cost multimeter, and if so, how accurate and durable is it? | |||||
| Answer to: Can ESP32 stream audio over Wi-Fi or Bluetooth? | 2 Relevance | 6 months ago | Neil_Overtorn | ESP32 | |
| Yes, it’s possible to stream audio from an ESP32 over both Wi-Fi and Bluetooth, but the method depends on what you need. For Wi-Fi, many developers use the ESP-ADF (Espressif Audio Development Framework), which supports protocols like HTTP, WebSocket, or RTP for audio streaming. Some lighter approaches involve ESPAsyncWebServer to stream raw or encoded data such as MP3. For Bluetooth, the ESP32-A2DP library works well for sending audio to headphones or speakers using the A2DP profile. In terms of performance, the ESP32-S3 and ESP32-A1S (with an external audio codec) are better suited than the standard ESP32 since they handle audio tasks more efficiently and have stronger support in ESP-ADF. Wi-Fi generally provides higher bandwidth and better quality but can introduce noticeable latency, while Bluetooth offers simpler real-time streaming at the cost of codec limitations and range. Overall, the ESP32 is capable of decent audio streaming for IoT or hobby projects, though it won’t match dedicated audio hardware for high-fidelity or ultra-low-latency applications. | |||||
| Answer to: Multimeter continuity beeps with no contact — false positives? | 2 Relevance | 7 months ago | Anju | Equipments | |
| If your multimeter is acting strangely—like giving false continuity readings—my advice is to first check the manual. If you don’t have a physical copy, most manufacturers provide manuals online. Make sure the test probes are inserted into the correct sockets for the type of measurement you're doing, and also verify that the batteries are in good condition and properly installed. If everything appears fine and the problem still exists, there’s a good chance the multimeter itself is faulty—especially if it’s a low-cost Model. I wouldn’t recommend trying to repair it yourself, as defects might affect other functions and make it potentially unsafe to use. In such cases, it's better to replace it with a quality multimeter that’s safety-rated. This ensures greater reliability and safety, especially for household electrical work. | |||||
| Answer to: Raspberry Pi OS vs Ubuntu vs DietPi — Which one is better? | 2 Relevance | 7 months ago | Dinesh bhardwaj | RPi Pico | |
| I’ve tested all three — Raspberry Pi OS, Ubuntu, and DietPi — and honestly, each one has its strengths depending on what you’re trying to do. If you're using a lower-end Model like the Pi 3 or Zero, DietPi is a beast in terms of performance. It's super lightweight and boots fast, with very minimal background processes. Great for headless or server-style setups. Raspberry Pi OS is the most balanced in my opinion. It’s stable, well-supported, and has excellent compatibility with GPIO, camera modules, and most accessories. Plus, it’s officially maintained by the Pi Foundation, so updates and long-term support are pretty solid. Ubuntu (especially Server) is decent, but I’ve found it to be a bit heavier on Pi 3 and not ideal for Zero. It works better on Pi 4, and is nice if you're already used to Ubuntu on desktops or other servers. That said, sometimes peripherals or GPIO need extra tweaks to work smoothly. In terms of ease of use — Pi OS with Desktop is very beginner-friendly. DietPi is command-line based but has a great first-boot installer that lets you choose only what you need, so it’s pretty efficient. Ubuntu is more for those who are already comfortable with Linux. For community and support, Pi OS is the winner. Tons of tutorials, help forums, and guides tailored specifically to the Pi. DietPi and Ubuntu both have good communities too, but they’re a bit more general. My personal picks: For simple or GPIO-heavy projects → Raspberry Pi OS For lightweight, headless, or server projects → DietPi For more advanced server use on Pi 4 → Ubuntu Server Hope that helps — happy to share more if you’ve got a specific use case in mind! | |||||
| Connecting Unequal Li-ion Batteries in Parallel | 2 Relevance | 7 months ago | Janet | Theoretical questions | |
| I'm working on a battery-powered project and came across something that seems simple but feels more complicated the more I think about it. Suppose I have two identical 3.7V Li-ion cells, both with the same capacity and chemistry, but one is sitting at 4.1V and the other at 3.9V. If I connect them directly in parallel (positive to positive, negative to negative), what exactly happens? I know current will flow from the higher voltage cell to the lower one, but: How much current are we talking about? Is there a risk of damaging the cells or causing overheating? Why doesn’t the higher-voltage cell just “wait” until they equalize gradually? Would internal resistance limit the surge, or is it still unsafe? I’m also curious how BMS (Battery Management Systems) handle this situation, and whether any passive or active balancing is required before connecting cells in parallel. If anyone has experience or insight (especially real-world examples or best practices), I’d really appreciate it! | |||||
| Answer to: ESP32 or STM32: Which is better for IoT? | 2 Relevance | 7 months ago | NextGenTech | ESP32 | |
| Each has its strengths—no need to choose sides. Use the ESP32 when you need wireless, the STM32 when you need control. They're affordable enough to keep both on hand for whatever the project demands. | |||||
| Answer to: Ghosting or crosstalk in my matrix keypad or display? | 2 Relevance | 7 months ago | Divyam | Theoretical questions | |
| Ghosting in keypads and LED matrices is usually caused by missing diodes and incorrect scanning logic, not just electrical interference. For keypads, always add isolation diodes if you expect multiple simultaneous keypresses. For LED matrices, ensure you scan the display correctly and fast enough. In both cases, keep wiring tidy, and avoid crosstalk by separating signal lines. These steps will eliminate most ghosting and unintended behavior in matrix systems. | |||||
| Answer to: Difference between asynchronous and synchronous resets in flip-flops? | 2 Relevance | 7 months ago | Kanishk | Theoretical questions | |
| Asynchronous and synchronous resets both serve to bring flip-flops to a known initial state, but they differ significantly in how and when they operate. An asynchronous reset takes effect immediately, regardless of the clock. This means that the moment the reset signal is asserted, the flip-flop resets—whether or not the clock is running. On the other hand, a synchronous reset only takes effect on the active edge of the clock (usually the rising edge). So even if the reset signal is asserted, the flip-flop will not reset until the next clock edge occurs. In digital design or when writing HDL like Verilog or VHDL, it is generally recommended to default to synchronous resets. They are easier to work with in timing analysis, more predictable in simulation, and better supported by most FPGA tools. Synchronous resets ensure that all logic changes happen in sync with the clock, which reduces the risk of glitches and metastability. However, there are situations where an asynchronous reset is necessary, such as when dealing with logic that receives a clock from an external device (a source-synchronous system) where the clock can stop. In such cases, a synchronous reset would not work because the flip-flop wouldn’t reset without a clock edge, so an asynchronous reset becomes essential to ensure proper initialization or fault handling. That said, asynchronous resets come with critical caveats, particularly around how they are removed. If the reset signal is deasserted (goes low or inactive) while the clock is not running, the circuit may enter an unpredictable state. To prevent this, designers often use a technique called synchronous reset removal, where the asynchronous reset is passed through a synchronizer (usually a two-stage flip-flop chain) so that the system only comes out of reset on a clean, clocked edge. This ensures stable behavior and avoids metastability issues. It’s also important to avoid relying on the reset value of an asynchronously reset flip-flop immediately after reset; doing so can lead to inconsistent behavior across builds, as synthesis tools may handle this differently. | |||||
| Answer to: SR Latch Output Unstable with Mechanical Switches? | 2 Relevance | 7 months ago | Bryan | Theoretical questions | |
| Yep, you're on the right track—mechanical switch bounce is the most likely culprit here. Mechanical contacts don’t just close once—they physically bounce for a few milliseconds, causing multiple rapid transitions that your SR latch interprets as separate inputs. That’s why you're seeing multiple or unstable output changes. To fix this issue, I recommend using a resistor and capacitor on the input line. A typical starting point is a 10kΩ resistor and a 0.1µF capacitor. This will help smooth out the bounce. Also, make sure the inputs aren’t floating and are properly pulled up or down. That should clean up the behavior of your SR latch. | |||||
| Answer to: How to interface a temperature sensor with an ESP32? | 2 Relevance | 8 months ago | Amelia | ESP32 | |
| This issue is common with the DHT11 on ESP32. Here’s what you can try: Use a 10K pull-up resistor between DATA and VCC (essential for signal stability). Power the DHT11 with 5V instead of 3.3V, if your module supports it (most do). Switch to the “DHTesp” library—it’s more reliable on ESP32 than the Adafruit one. Double-check wiring and ensure you're using the correct GPIO number (GPIO4, not a labeled pin like D4). Use short wires, and try another sensor if nothing works—some cheap modules are faulty. These steps usually fix the "Failed to read from DHT sensor!" issue. If the error still persist you can comment. | |||||
| Answer to: Is a capacitor really linear? | 2 Relevance | 8 months ago | Admin | Theoretical questions | |
| A capacitor is called linear because the relationship between the voltage across it and the current flowing through it is linear. The exponential curve you're seeing is its behavior over time, which is different. Here’s the breakdown: What "Linear" actually means here In circuit theory, a component is linear if it follows the rule of superposition and scaling.1 In simple terms: if you double the cause, you double the effect. For a capacitor, the relationship is defined by the equation 2I=CdtdV.3 This means the current (4I) is directly proportional to the rate of change of voltage (5dV/dt).6 So, if you double the current going into the cap, its voltage changes twice as fast. If you halve the current, its voltage changes half as fast. That direct, proportional relationship is what makes it a linear component. So why the exponential curve? That famous exponential curve shows the capacitor's voltage versus time when it's part of a circuit with a resistor (an RC circuit). It's not a direct graph of voltage vs. current. Think about what happens when you charge it: At the start, the capacitor is empty, so a large current flows in. As it charges, voltage builds up across it. This built-up voltage opposes the source, which reduces the voltage across the resistor, and therefore reduces the current flowing into the cap. So, the charging slows down as it gets fuller. This process of "charging slower and slower as it fills up" is what creates that exponential curve. The capacitor itself is still behaving linearly at any given instant, but the behavior of the whole circuit over time is exponential. So: Component's V-I relationship: Linear. (The physics of the cap itself). Circuit's V-T response: Exponential. (The behavior you see over time in an RC circuit). Hope that clears it up! | |||||
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