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| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Answer to: Why do ceramic capacitors have no polarity? | 13 Relevance | 10 months ago | Admin | Theoretical questions | |
| It's all about what they're made of inside. Basically, ceramic capacitors use a ceramic material as the dielectric (the stuff between the metal plates). This material doesn't care which WAy the electricity flows. you can Hook it up forwards, backwards, sideways... it'll still work just fine. It's a "non-polarized" material. Capacitors that do have polarity, like electrolytic capacitors, are different. They use a super-thin layer of metal oxide that's created through a chemical process. This layer only works as an insulator in one direction. if you Hook it ... | |||||
| Answer to: Can i use EN pins for PWM speed control in L298N Motor driver? | 7 Relevance | 2 years ago | Admin | Hardware/Schematic | |
| Yes, you can Hook these pins to the PWM pin on Arduino. The Enable pin on the L298N acts as a gatekeeper for the power supplied to the motor. When the pin is set HIGH, the motor is enabled and can run. When set LOW, the motor is disabled and stops. By connecting the Enable pin to a PWM-capable pin on the Arduino and sending a PWM signal, you can control the effective voltage supplied to the motor. This changes the speed of the motor: A higher duty cycle (e.g., 100%) means the Enable pin is HIGH most of the time, allowing full power to the motor and thus full speed.A lower duty cycle (e.g., 50%) means the Enable pin is HIGH only half the time, reducing the average power supplied to the motor and thus reducing the speed. Here's an example that demonstrates how to set up and control the motor speed connected to A channel: // Define pins const int ENA = 9; // PWM pin for Motor A const int IN1 = 8; // Direction pin 1 for Motor A const int IN2 = 7; // Direction pin 2 for Motor A void setup() { // Set pin modes pinMode(ENA, OUTPUT); pinMode(IN1, OUTPUT); pinMode(IN2, OUTPUT); } void loop() { // Set motor direction digitalWrite(IN1, HIGH); digitalWrite(IN2, LOW); // Set motor speed using PWM analogWrite(ENA, 127); // 50% duty cycle, half speed delay(2000); // Run for 2 seconds // Change motor speed analogWrite(ENA, 255); // 100% duty cycle, full speed delay(2000); // Run for 2 seconds | |||||
| Bluetooth Speaker won't turn on | 5 Relevance | 3 months ago | servitec | Theoretical questions | |
| I know is not probably the best place for a newbie, the AI somehow helps but I definitely prefer go with the experts. I am fascinated with the laws of electronic, but more than ever I know it demands a serious compromise to enter this amazing world. Board Description: HXYT-A0-665-REV1.1 (A bluetooth speaker)The speaker wont turn on, is doing nothing.SIDE ACompt.1= 56HS5, B310B (5 pins)Compt.2= J6 (3 pins) ?Compt.3 4004A, 33580KMSide BCompt.1= 4R7 (inductor)Compt.2= SS54 (SCHOTTKY BARRIER RECTIFIER)Compt.3= M8889, Y4D371 (8 Pins) ?Compt.4 PNSA15E7E, X0B253, 2359 --When connected the battery in the terminals, it shows normal (aprox 5V)--I tested the negative and positive spots in reverse of battery connector and off course no shorted--When first tested pin C of power button, it shows 0.840V, after some tests is showing 2.4V when first push the power button it drops to 0V but now no more drops and it gets 2.4 V no matter if push the power button--Tested all capacitors of Side A and all of them are ok, also the capacitor X which is connected to the Compt.3, the component 3 seems to be a DC-DC converter, the capacitor X is in parallel of pins 4 and 6. When checking the VIN in Compt.3 (pin5) is ok, but when I push the power button there is no VOUT (pin1)--When connected to the charger, the device’s charging led turns on and the board battery terminals shows the charging voltage. In Side B We can see the battery port, the left pin is the + one, that pin goes to the compt.1 through pad named in the image as “pad positive pin”, then the compt.1 is connected to the compt.2 (I tested both and they seem to be ok). I tested all capacitors in Side B, all of them are ok except capacitor X. The capacitor X is connected to the pin that is marked with a yellow face sticker in compt.4, and I'd like to have the PCB's information or at least the compt.4's (or the M8889) in Order to know that capacitor values.What more testing do you recommend me to apply, what is component 2 in side A, what is component 4 in side B, is it a multiplexer? What is component 3 in side B, is it a switch IC? What recommendations can you give me when is hard to find a component by its code? Attachment : Side-A.jpg | |||||
| What is the difference between low-pass and high-pass filters? | 5 Relevance | 1 year ago | CircuitFlow | Theoretical questions | |
| I’m trying to understand the fundamental differences between low-pass and high-pass electronic filters. I gather that a low-pass filter allows low frequencies to pass while attenuating high frequencies, whereas a high-pass filter does the opposite. I’m particularly interested in how their circuit designs differ, their common applications, and how factors like cutoff frequency and filter Order affect their performance. Any insights or explanations would be greatly appreciated! | |||||
| Answer to: How can I safely power a BLDC motor from a hard disk drive? | 5 Relevance | 6 months ago | Divyam | Theoretical questions | |
| ... but may be difficult; a microcontroller + driver is great for learning but not the easiest. To find the pinout, measure resistance with a multimeter: with 3 wires, all pairwise readings should match (the three phases); with 4 wires, the pin that reads the same to all others is the neutral; phase Order only affects direction, so swap any two leads to reverse. To avoid damage, never apply DC across two leads, don’t stall the rotor, keep leads short (with a decoupling capacitor near the driver), and WAtch temperature. | |||||
| Shift Register Cascading Issues | 5 Relevance | 10 months ago | Electronix | Theoretical questions | |
| I'm trying to cascade multiple 74HC595 shift registers to expand the number of digital outputs in my project. While one shift register works perfectly on its own, as soon as I add the second (and especially the third), I start getting strange or inconsistent output—some LEDs don’t light up correctly, or they shift out of Order. Is there a timing issue I might be overlooking? Do I need to delay between latching and shifting? Could signal integrity or voltage drop be the issue when chaining several ICs? | |||||
| Difference between asynchronous and synchronous resets in flip-flops? | 5 Relevance | 10 months ago | J.Smith | Theoretical questions | |
| My teacher mentioned that there's an important distinction between asynchronous and synchronous resets used in flip-flops, but I’m still a bit confused about how they actually differ in behavior. From what I understand, both Types reset the flip-flop to a known state, but: How does the timing of an asynchronous reset differ from a synchronous one? When designing digital circuits or writing HDL (like Verilog or VHDL), how do I decide which Type to use? Are there any pros, cons, or common pitfalls I should be aware of with either reset Type? I'd appreciate a practical explanation or examples that clarify when and why one might be preferred over the other. | |||||
| Answer to: Difference between active and passive buzzer and how to identify them? | 5 Relevance | 2 years ago | Admin | Theoretical questions | |
| For a tank WAter level control system, both active and passive buzzers can be used for sound alerts, but which one is best depends on your needs. Key Differences:Active Buzzer: This Type comes with an internal oscillating circuit, meaning it generates sound as soon as you power it. You don't need any extra control or signal from a microcontroller—just apply voltage (like 5V), and it will produce a constant tone. This is ideal for simple "on/off" alerts. Pros: Easy to use, no extra coding needed to generate sound. Cons: Fixed tone—no control over pitch or ... | |||||
| Answer to: Why hasn't Arduino added a USB-C port to the UNO R3? | 5 Relevance | 2 years ago | Tech Geek | Hardware/Schematic | |
| ... Additionally, USB-C connectors and cables are generally more expensive than USB Type-B, especially in large quantities. This could increase the production costs of Arduino boards, potentially making them less affordable for hobbyists and students. When the Uno R3 WAs released, USB-C WAs either just emerging or not widely adopted, so using it wouldn't have been practical at the time. However, it's worth noting that the latest Arduino Uno R4 does include a USB-C port, showing that Arduino is gradually moving towards newer standards where it makes sense. | |||||
| Answer to: Differences Between LM358 Temperature Sensor and Thermistor? | 5 Relevance | 2 years ago | Jignesh | Theoretical questions | |
| Thermistors cost much less than the LM35 temperature sensor but require calibration due to their non-linear nature. At the same time, a thermistor is more accurate and precise(down to +/- 0.1°C) than an LM35(around +/- 0.5°C). LM35: Very easy to integrate with Arduino. You can read the output voltage directly using an analog pin, and with simple conversion (multiply by 100 to convert from mV to °C), you get the temperature. Thermistors: While they can be integrated, they often require additional components (like a resistor for a voltage divider) and more complex calculations to convert resistance to temperature. This can make them slightly more challenging to set up. Main Differences Feature LM35 Temperature Sensor Thermistor Type Integrated circuit (analog voltage output) Resistor (typically NTC or PTC) Output Outputs a linear voltage (10 mV/°C) Resistance changes non-linearly with temperature Temperature Range Typically -55 to +150 °C Varies, but generally -40 to +125 °C Accuracy Typically ±0.5 °C or better Can be very accurate, but depends on the Type and calibration Response Time Fast response time Generally fast but varies by design Ease of Use Simple to interface with Arduino (analog input) Requires more complex calculations for linearization Calibration Usually factory calibrated Often requires calibration and look-up tables for accuracy For most projects requiring precise temperature monitoring with reliable readings and ease of integration with Arduino, the LM35 is likely the best option. However, if you need the highest accuracy and can manage the additional complexity, consider using a thermistor P.S.: LM358 is an OP-AMP IC. LM35 is a temperature sensor. | |||||
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