Hi! I checked the circuit on TinkerCad. There were some mistakes, like wrong capacitor connection and value. Here's the edited one: A couple of points worth mentioning here: 1. On running the simulation, TinkerCad shows too much current drawn from the IC and may damage it. 2. This is true if you are running it continuously. In this case, all LEDs are ON at the same time for a very small duration, so it somehow works. 3. Still, not a good idea in the long run. I will suggest: 1. Use a 220-ohm resistor instead of 100. And connect two LEDs Per pin to only one resistor. Meaning a total of 8 resistors for an 8-pin. This will reduce the overall current draw from the IC and Per pin as well. 2. Better use 330 ohm..but not that it will reduce the brightness of the LEDs further.

... gives inaccurate results. 2. Discharge the capacitor safely: 3. Use a resistor (e.g., 1kΩ, 1W) across the leads. 4. Avoid shorting large electrolytics directly — they can spark or get damaged. 5. Set your multimeter to capacitance mode (⏀). 6. Connect the probes to the capacitor leads. Polarity doesn't matter for film or ceramic caps; for electrolytics, follow Meter instructions. 7. WAit a few seconds for the reading to stabilize — especially for high-value caps. Hope this helps!

Yes, definitely discharge the capacitor first — especially if it's a high-voltage one. A charged cap can damage your multimeter or give you completely wrong readings. To discharge it, you can short the leads using a resistor (like 1kΩ or 10kΩ), or a screwdriver with an insulated handle if it's a small electrolytic (nothing high voltage though — not safe). Also, for accurate readings: Take the capacitor out of the circuit if you can. In-circuit measurements are often wrong because of parallel components. Let the multimeter settle for a few seconds, especially with large caps. Make sure your test leads are making good contact. If your Meter has a "zero" or "rel" mode, use that to cancel out stray capacitance from the probes. And keep in mind, these DMM readings are just a ballpark — they won’t tell you if the cap has high ESR or leakage. For that, you'd need an ESR Meter.

Attachment : L293D-Vs-L298N.jpeg The only important difference between the L293D and L298N motor driver module is the current rating: L293D: Can handle up to 600mA Per channel (with a peak of 1.2A for brief Periods). L298N: Can handle up to 2A Per channel (with a peak of 3A for short bursts). So if your motors require more than 600mA of current, the L298N would be a better choice due to its higher current capacity and attached heatsink. If you ignore the rating, there is an advantage to L293D: Since the L293D IC comes in a DIP package, you can use it as it is in your circuit such as on a breadboard or a PCB. L298N doesn't offer this feature since it comes in a Multiwatt-15 package. So you are forced to buy the complete L298N module. Also, the price of the L293D IC is very low compared to the L298N module. You can read the differences between these two in detail here: L298N VS L293D

Hi everyone, While checking continuity with my multimeter, I sometimes get beeping sounds even when the probes aren’t actually touching the wires.It seems like a false reading.Could this be due to stray capacitance, interference, or a faulty Meter?

I’ve seen WArnings about using the current (amp) setting on a multimeter, and I WAnt to be cautious. I understand that to measure current, the Meter has to be placed in series with the load. But I’m unsure about the risks involved when doing this on a live circuit, especially with higher voltages like AC mains or even 12V DC systems with decent current. Is it safe to switch to the amp mode while the circuit is powered?

Yes, if you measure current like voltage (in parallel), you can short the circuit and blow the multimeter fuse, or worse, damage it. Also, if the probe is left in the current port and you try to measure voltage, it creates a short path and can seriously damage the Meter or the circuit. Always switch the probe back to the voltage port and check your dial setting before measuring.

Yes, the current limit Per pin is 40 mA(sink/source OR IN/OUT). However, this is the maximum absolute rating and you should not draw this much current continuously. The safe value is around 20-30 mA. It's better to use a DC motor driver like L293D or L298N for driving DC motors using Arduino. I hope this helps.

Hey folks, I'm new to Arduino and tinkering with digital pins for a project. I'm trying to control a DC motor that I've hooked up to one of the digital pins. I've heard it's important to stay within the current limits of the pins, around 40mA Per pin. Can someone confirm this for me? And also, what happens if I exceed this limit while powering the motor? Will it damage my board?

I’m planning to join college for my undergraduate studies in Electrical and Electronics Engineering and WAnted to get some insights into the job market. How are the career opportunities in this field currently, and what does the future look like for EEE graduates? Are there specific industries or emerging areas (like renewable energy, IoT, automation, or semiconductor Design) where demand is expected to grow?