Yes, you can hook these pins to the PWM pin on Arduino. The Enable pin on the L298N acts as a gatekeeper for the power supplied to the motor. When the pin is Set HIGH, the motor is enabled and can run. When Set LOW, the motor is disabled and stops. By connecting the Enable pin to a PWM-capable pin on the Arduino and sending a PWM signal, you can control the effective voltage supplied to the motor. This changes the speed of the motor: A higher duty cycle (e.g., 100%) means the Enable pin is HIGH most of the time, allowing full power to the motor and thus full speed.A lower duty cycle (e.g., 50%) means the Enable pin is HIGH only half the time, reducing the average power supplied to the motor and thus reducing the speed. Here's an example that demonstrates how to Set up and control the motor speed connected to A channel: // Define pins const int ENA = 9; // PWM pin for Motor A const int IN1 = 8; // Direction pin 1 for Motor A const int IN2 = 7; // Direction pin 2 for Motor A void Setup() { // Set pin modes pinMode(ENA, OUTPUT); pinMode(IN1, OUTPUT); pinMode(IN2, OUTPUT); } void loop() { // Set motor direction digitalWrite(IN1, HIGH); digitalWrite(IN2, LOW); // Set motor speed using PWM analogWrite(ENA, 127); // 50% duty cycle, half speed delay(2000); // Run for 2 seconds // Change motor speed analogWrite(ENA, 255); // 100% duty cycle, full speed delay(2000); // Run for 2 seconds

... to bake a cake. Your loop() function is carefully measuring flour, mixing ingredients, and so on. Now, what if the doorbell rings? Without interrupts (the loop() WAy): You'd have to finish a major step in your recipe (like mixing the batter) and then quickly run to the door to check if anyone is there. If your recipe step takes a long time, your visitor might get impatient and leave. This is called polling – repeatedly checking the state of something. With interrupts: The moment the doorbell rings, you'd immediately pause what you're doing (even if you're ...

I'm troubleshooting a communication circuit and often hear people say to “set the trigger” on the oscilloscope. I’m confused—what’s the difference between just connecting the scope and actually Setting the trigger? What does the trigger do, and how does it help in viewing signals properly?

I know that shift registers like the 74HC595 can be daisy-chained to expand outputs, but I’m wondering where the practical limit lies. Is the limit mainly due to propagation delay and timing issues, or do factors like power consumption, loading on the data and clock lines, and signal integrity also become major concerns as the chain gets longer? Are there any general guidelines (such as maximum number of devices or Total outputs) before performance or reliability starts to drop? I’d be interested to hear from anyone who has pushed the number of chained shift registers in a real project.

@sophie Fair points! The Pico is definitely a solid option, especially if you’re into Python. That said, I still think the Arduino Uno is easier for Total beginners, just because there’s WAy more support, tutorials, and libraries. If you ever get stuck, chances are someone’s already solved it. Plus, working with C/C++ on Arduino isn’t as scary as it sounds—tons of example codes make it pretty straightforward.

... us a Total of 12 state machines. 4 more than the original Security features Price- just $5 1 more ADC(total 4) and 8 more PWM(total 24) then the original Pico. Supports C/C++, Arduino IDE, Circuitpython and Micropython Now Disadvantages: Still no USB-C No reset button It would have been better if there WAs a built-in WiFi chip(link Pico W) if they WAnt to compete with ESP32. But of course, they will sell it separately as a new board and call it Pico 2W. Please add to this if you think there are more. Also, will publish an in-depth article on Pico 2 ...

When you simply connect an oscilloscope to a signal, the screen may show a WAveform that appears unstable, jittery, or rolling. This happens because the scope doesn’t know when to start drawing each WAveform—it just keeps refreshing as data comes in. That’s where the trigger comes in. The trigger tells the oscilloscope when to begin drawing the WAveform on the screen. It locks the display to a specific event—like when the signal crosses a certain voltage level going up (rising edge) or down (falling edge). By doing this, it ensures that each sweep starts a ...

I’ve been exploring more advanced uses for my Raspberry Pi and WAs wondering if it’s possible to replace a standard home router or Set it up as a network firewall. I understand that the Pi has Ethernet and Wi-Fi capabilities, and with the right software like OpenWRT or Pi-hole, it seems doable. Has anyone here successfully Set up a Raspberry Pi (especially models like the Pi 4 or Pi 5) as a full-fledged router or firewall? How well does it handle real-world network traffic and multiple devices? Also, what are the limitations in terms of speed, security, and ...

If you prefer a board that maintains a workflow similar to the Arduino Uno or Nano, the Raspberry Pi Pico offers a familiar development experience. It supports both C/C++ and MicroPython, making it a great option for experimenting with new programming environments while retaining a simple and straightforward approach to hardware control. Its Programmable I/O (PIO) feature also opens the door to custom protocol development and precise timing applications, which aren’t easily achievable on traditional Arduino boards. On the other hand, if you're ready to explore more advanced capabilities such as Wi-Fi and Bluetooth connectivity, multitasking, or real-time data streaming, the ESP32 provides significantly more flexibility. It supports multiple programming environments—including the Arduino IDE—while offering powerful hardware features like dual-core processing, built-in wireless communication, touch sensors, and high-resolution ADCs. While the development process might initially seem more involved due to the richer feature Set, the ESP32 is well-suited for complex or connected projects and offers long-term value for those interested in expanding their skill Set.

This is the safest option to identify the Neutral wire using a multimeter: 1. Set Up Your Multimeter: Set your multimeter to AC voltage mode (V~). Choose a range higher than your supply voltage (e.g., 250V for 220V systems). Insert the black probe in COM and the red probe in V/Ω. 2. Identify the Live Wire: Place the black probe on a known earth source (e.g., a metallic pipe or grounded screw). Use the red probe to measure each wire. Live to Earth = ~220V (or 110V) Neutral to Earth = 0V - 5V Earth to Earth = 0V The wire showing the highest voltage (~220V or 110V) is Live. 3. Identify Neutral vs. Earth: Measure the voltage between the remaining two wires. Neutral to Earth should show 0V - 5V due to minor voltage drop. Earth to Live should still show ~220V (or 110V). The wire showing nearly 0V relative to Earth is the actual Earth wire.

Good point by @FullBridgeRectifier . Just to clarify for anyone new to this: when we say “divide by 255 instead of 256,” it’s because we’re looking at the maximum value the PWM can take, not the Total count of values. This WAy, your duty cycle calculations always correctly reach 100%.

... for beginners who are new to RF like me, and even the cheapest RF power meters cost hundreds of RMB. For electronics enthusiasts who follow the principle of "spend when you should, save when you can", DIYing an RF power meter is a great alternative. The first step WAs to define the functions and design the hardware circuit. To test RF power, a chip called a detector is required. I had not found a suitable option for a long time as it WAs my first time working with an RF detector, until I saw the power detection module on the E25-C test baseboard, which use ...

@ankunegi The answer is on point but I think there's a mistake in your calculation. To calculate the duty cycle, we have to divide it by 255(the maximum value) and not 256(The Total no. of steps). For example: A 2-bit PWM signal has 4 possible steps: 0,1,2 and 3 corresponding to 0%, 33.33%, 66.67% and 100% duty cycle. You get this by dividing by 3, not 4. If you divide it by 4, you will get 25%. Which means 0%, 25%, 50% and 75%. See, you are not getting 100% duty cycle in this case.

1. Yes you can. But then you have to turn ON only one LED at a time. 2. It is simple. If each LED consumes 12mA we get, Total current= 12X15 = 180mA, which is below the maximum rating. Now resistor value = 5V/12mA = 416 ohms.