Yes, you can hook these pins to the PWM pin on Arduino. The Enable pin on the L298N acts as a gatekeeper for the power supplied to the motor. When the pin is Set HIGH, the motor is enabled and can run. When Set LOW, the motor is disabled and stops. By connecting the Enable pin to a PWM-capable pin on the Arduino and sending a PWM signal, you can control the effective voltage supplied to the motor. This changes the speed of the motor: A higher duty cycle (e.g., 100%) means the Enable pin is HIGH most of the time, allowing full power to the motor and thus full speed.A lower duty cycle (e.g., 50%) means the Enable pin is HIGH only half the time, reducing the average power supplied to the motor and thus reducing the speed. Here's an example that demonstrates how to Set up and control the motor speed connected to A channel: // Define pins const int ENA = 9; // PWM pin for Motor A const int IN1 = 8; // Direction pin 1 for Motor A const int IN2 = 7; // Direction pin 2 for Motor A void Setup() { // Set pin modes pinMode(ENA, OUTPUT); pinMode(IN1, OUTPUT); pinMode(IN2, OUTPUT); } void loop() { // Set motor direction digitalWrite(IN1, HIGH); digitalWrite(IN2, LOW); // Set motor speed using PWM analogWrite(ENA, 127); // 50% duty cycle, half speed delay(2000); // Run for 2 seconds // Change motor speed analogWrite(ENA, 255); // 100% duty cycle, full speed delay(2000); // Run for 2 seconds

The main reason Teensy is preferred for DIY keyboards is its native USB support. Unlike most Arduino boards (like Uno, Nano, Pro Mini) that use a separate USB-to-serial chip, Teensy’s microcontrollers handle USB directly. This allows them to appear as a true USB HID device (keyboard, mouse, MIDI, etc.) without extra work. On top of that, Teensy boards generally offer more flash, RAM, and faster processors, which makes them well-suited for complex keyboard firmware like QMK or TMK that require Custom layouts, macros, and lighting effects. The Arduino Uno/Nano can’t natively emulate a keyboard without workarounds, while Teensy supports it out of the box.

I'm troubleshooting a communication circuit and often hear people say to “set the trigger” on the oscilloscope. I’m confused—what’s the difference between just connecting the scope and actually Setting the trigger? What does the trigger do, and how does it help in viewing signals properly?

When you simply connect an oscilloscope to a signal, the screen may show a WAveform that appears unstable, jittery, or rolling. This happens because the scope doesn’t know when to start drawing each WAveform—it just keeps refreshing as data comes in. That’s where the trigger comes in. The trigger tells the oscilloscope when to begin drawing the WAveform on the screen. It locks the display to a specific event—like when the signal crosses a certain voltage level going up (rising edge) or down (falling edge). By doing this, it ensures that each sweep starts a ...

If you prefer a board that maintains a workflow similar to the Arduino Uno or Nano, the Raspberry Pi Pico offers a familiar development experience. It supports both C/C++ and MicroPython, making it a great option for experimenting with new programming environments while retaining a simple and straightforward approach to hardware control. Its Programmable I/O (PIO) feature also opens the door to Custom protocol development and precise timing applications, which aren’t easily achievable on traditional Arduino boards. On the other hand, if you're ready to explore more advanced capabilities such as Wi-Fi and Bluetooth connectivity, multitasking, or real-time data streaming, the ESP32 provides significantly more flexibility. It supports multiple programming environments—including the Arduino IDE—while offering powerful hardware features like dual-core processing, built-in wireless communication, touch sensors, and high-resolution ADCs. While the development process might initially seem more involved due to the richer feature Set, the ESP32 is well-suited for complex or connected projects and offers long-term value for those interested in expanding their skill Set.

Nicely explained! Do you know if the ESP32-C3’s USB Serial/JTAG can be extended to support HID with Custom firmware, or is it strictly limited to debugging and flashing?

I need a board with native USB support for HID or Custom USB projects, and I’m trying to decide between the ESP32-C3 and ESP32-S3. Do both support native USB, and which one is more reliable for this purpose?

For a portable IoT device, Li-ion is generally the better choice because of its higher energy density and longer lifespan. It’ll give you more runtime per charge and is easier to manage in terms of charging circuits and protection. That said, Li-Po can work for IoT devices, but it’s usually overkill unless you have specific design constraints—like needing a really thin form factor or a Custom shape that standard Li-ion cells don’t fit. One area where Li-Po might make sense is if your device has occasional power spikes, since Li-Po batteries can handle higher discharge rates.

I totally agree with Jeff. Building a Custom PCB including a microcontroller chip for a personal project such as automating your room is one thing and you may even save a few bucks than buying the dev board separately. But when you WAnt to sell this product to consumers that's a whole different story. You can't possibly think that assembling some parts on 10 PCBs and saving money is anything like doing business. It takes a lot to create a profitable business out of this.

... to bake a cake. Your loop() function is carefully measuring flour, mixing ingredients, and so on. Now, what if the doorbell rings? Without interrupts (the loop() WAy): You'd have to finish a major step in your recipe (like mixing the batter) and then quickly run to the door to check if anyone is there. If your recipe step takes a long time, your visitor might get impatient and leave. This is called polling – repeatedly checking the state of something. With interrupts: The moment the doorbell rings, you'd immediately pause what you're doing (even if you're ...

Definetly not, Dont switch to amps or move the red lead to the A/10A jack while your probes are on a live circuit. In A mode the meter is basically a short; flipping to it or probing voltage with the lead in A can blow the fuse, make an arc, or worse. Set the meter and leads with power off, break the circuit, insert the meter in series, then power up. For mains, use a clamp meter; for 12 V high-current systems be extra cautious or use a clamp/shunt. And always move the red lead back to V when you’re done to avoid the classic “next-time short.”

There are a lot of WAys you can use the HCSR04 Ultrasonic sensor. Try making a gesture-controlled light switch—wave your hand to turn it on! Or build a musical instrument that changes pitch based on how far your hand is. If you WAnt something practical? Try to Set up a smart trash can that opens when you get close, or count how many times you do push-ups with a sensor tracking your chest movement. You could even rotate it on a servo to scan a room like a mini radar. The possibilities are endless.

... for beginners who are new to RF like me, and even the cheapest RF power meters cost hundreds of RMB. For electronics enthusiasts who follow the principle of "spend when you should, save when you can", DIYing an RF power meter is a great alternative. The first step WAs to define the functions and design the hardware circuit. To test RF power, a chip called a detector is required. I had not found a suitable option for a long time as it WAs my first time working with an RF detector, until I saw the power detection module on the E25-C test baseboard, which use ...